INFORMATION
| ZONE SYSTEMS | YOUR THERMOSTAT |
| REPAIR OR REPLACE | HIGH EFFICIENCY SYSTEMS |
| HOW ENERGY USE IS MEASURED | ROUTINE MAINTENANCE |
| COMPARING EQUIPMENT | SOUND LEVELS |
| COMFORT | REFRIGERANTS |
Matching condensing units and outdoor coils
Imagine you have four old, worn-out tires on your car and you decide you only want to replace two of them. You can still drive your car, but you’ll soon be disappointed with the inconsistent handling and the poor mileage you get. The unmatched tires simply aren’t capable of the same level of performance. You could have these same kinds of problems with comfort and efficiency if the components of your central air conditioning or heat pump system are not properly matched.
It takes teamwork.
Your central air conditioning or heat pump system is a split system. That means it consist of two parts: and indoor unit (coil) and outdoor (condensing) unit. These two parts are specifically designed to work together as a coordinated “team” to provide top performance and maximum efficiency and comfort. Plus, since both components are necessary for a working system, both parts of your existing system were originally installed at the same time — which means they both wear out at the same time. So if you install a new outdoor unit, be sure to include a new, equally efficient “matched” indoor unit.
When a bargain’s not a bargain.
If you don’t replace your indoor unit, you won’t be getting what you paid for. In fact, your system could be up to 15% less efficient than stated — and you’ll be less comfortable, too. That's why simply replacing just the outdoor unit isn't a bargain in the long run.
Replacing the outdoor unit but leaving the old indoor unit may offer you the lowest price, but it won’t give you the best value. At best, when your air conditioning or heat pump components don’t match, you’ll be sacrificing comfort. The system may still “work,” but it won’t perform up to the promised energy efficiency. Over time, this will also cost you more money. At worst, when the components aren’t matched, it could create undue stress on your cooling system, resulting in unnecessary, premature failure.
Matched Systems Mean Maximum Satisfaction.
When you consider the sacrifices and the added costs of repairing or replacing these unmatched units, installing a matched system the first time around makes good sense. You’ll get higher efficiencies, greater reliability and more comfort. And that’s a real bargain.
ZONE SYSTEMS
In the same way that a single thermostat controls when the temperatures in your home change, a Carrier zoning system controls where they change.
With zoning and programmable thermostats, you can actually divide your home into two, three or four separate “zones” with similar comfort needs. Then, a system of electronic thermostats and electronically controlled dampers automatically adjusts the level of comfort in each of those zones.
A zoning system gives you the same kind of flexibility in controlling heating and cooling that you have with light switches in your home. It doesn’t make sense to waste energy to light a room no one’s using, so you turn off the light switch, right? With zoning you can basically do the same thing with heating and cooling — increasing your comfort tremendously and enjoying huge savings on your energy bills.
Zoning is especially beneficial if you have certain rooms or areas that are always warmer or cooler than the rest of the home. You can direct your system to automatically provide more heating or cooling to that area without wasting energy to heat or cool your entire home.
In many cases, proper zoning can result in operating cost savings of as much as 30%. While zoning does not actually increase the efficiency of your furnace, heat pump or air conditioner, it does increase the overall efficiency of your system by directing heating or cooling only where you need it. Plus, since you don’t need extra capacity to heat or cool areas you’re not using, zoning may allow you to install a smaller unit. Smaller-capacity equipment costs less to install and to operate. That translates into even more savings!
To find out how zoning could make you more comfortable and reduce your energy costs, contact Rogue Valley Heating and Air Conditioning.
YOUR THERMOSTAT
Thermostats help your heating and cooling equipment maintain the optimal temperature setting with the utmost energy efficiency. Today’s electronic models are a vast departure from earlier mechanical styles. Microprocessors allow you to program your home temperatures to suit your lifestyle, so you can keep things comfortable while you’re home and automatically set back your temperatures to save energy when you’re away or sleeping.
Electronic thermostats work in much the same way as older, manual thermostats did. The microprocessor inside compares the thermometer reading of a room’s temperature to the desired temperature you select. Then, it gives start and stop commands to the heating or cooling system to bring the temperature to a level that makes you comfortable.
Programmable thermostats basically work the same way, but they are far more convenient. Once you program the thermostat to customize the system’s operation to fit your lifestyle and schedule, all you have to do is relax and let it do all the work. You simply program into its memory the temperatures you need, at what time of the day, to stay comfortable and save energy all season. You only need to program it once — until the season or your lifestyle changes.
The most important way that a programmable thermostat saves energy is in its setback feature. When you don’t need a normal level of heating or cooling, you can program the thermostat to set the temperature back until the next pre-programmed time when you want normal temperatures. Programming temperatures around 63 F on cold winter nights, when you’re snuggled under blankets, can help you save as much as 15% on your heating costs. You can save even more by programming your system to “setback” the temperature when your family is away at work, at school, or on vacation. In summer, setbacks work much the same way for central air conditioning.
For information on how to program your thermostat to fit your home’s needs and your lifestyle, refer to your owner’s manual or call Rogue Valley Heating and Air Conditioning.
WHEN TO REPAIR EQUIPMENT & WHEN TO REPLACE
When you’re frustrated with an equipment break-down, it can be tempting to find the least expensive “quick fix” to get on with your life in relative comfort. That “quick fix” may be the least expensive now, but it may not give you the most value — or cost you the least — in the long run.
Paying for repairs to an old or inefficient system often simply prolongs the inevitable. It’s almost like putting a bandage on a serious injury. An older system that breaks down once is likely to break down again ... and again. That means more emergency service calls or, worse yet, the risk of damage to your home or to other components of your heating and cooling system.
There’s also an ongoing cost factor to consider. Restoring your old system will only bring it back to its current level of energy efficiency. After you’ve recovered from the repair bills and the frustration of system breakdowns, you still won’t save on your energy bills.
Even six-year-old heat pumps and air conditioners are considered grossly inefficient by today’s energy efficiency standards. So are most furnaces built before 1980. So you could save up to 60% on your energy bills with new high-efficiency equipment. That’s why installing a new heating and cooling system can actually pay for itself in energy savings within a relatively short time.
Looking at the Big Picture.
When one component of your system breaks down unexpectedly, it’s easy to just focus on repairing or replacing that component. But each part of your system works with the others to boost efficiency and reliability, so it helps to keep the big picture in mind.
Replacing your old furnace with a new higher-efficiency model but leaving your old mechanical thermostat in place, for example, won’t allow you to enjoy all the efficiency advantages the furnace has to offer. Likewise, if you install a new furnace but don’t get a humidifier, the air will seem cooler, forcing you to operate your new system at a higher temperature to be comfortable. Plus, you can often save on installation costs if you have several components of your system (for example, a furnace and an air conditioner) replaced at the same time.
HIGH EFFICIENCY SYSTEMS
Furnaces are the most commonly used residential heating system in the United States.
Approximately 38 million gas furnaces are currently operating in U.S. homes and approximately 2.5 million of these furnaces are replaced annually. A 15-year-old furnace may be only 66% efficient and cost up to $730 per year to operate. A new high-efficiency furnace can be 90% efficient or greater and cost as little as $525 to operate annually. Choosing to purchase a furnace in the 90-96% efficiency range can reduce pollution and save homeowners hundreds of dollars over the equipment's lifetime.
What is EPA doing about it?
Industry-leading furnace manufacturers have signed agreements with EPA to produce and promote high-efficiency furnaces that are 90% efficient or greater. These high-efficiency gas furnaces squeeze energy savings from furnaces using an advanced "condensing" technology. Products qualifying for this EPA program will be identified by the EPA Energy Star logo.
How do you purchase an Energy Star furnace?
Purchasing energy-efficient products becomes easier for consumers, as now they can simply ask for Energy Star models when working with a contractor to select a new furnace. Most of the major furnace manufacturers have decided to participate in the EPA program. Thus heating contractors will have easy access to Energy Star furnace models.
Efficiency Comparison: How much can my Energy Star furnace save relative to other furnaces?
Over 10 years, an Energy Star furnace could save $1,700 relative to an old furnace, and $920 relative to a new standard furnace.
*Savings based on $732 average annual heating bill from a 1993 American Gas Association survey for the Middle Atlantic region. EPA estimates for old furnace AFUE = 66%; standard furnace = 78%; and Energy Star = 92%. Actual savings for individual homeowners will vary based on geographical area of the country, local gas rates and the age and size of the home.
For more information about Energy Star furnaces, please contact: Peter Banwell, Manager, Energy Star Furnaces, U.S. EPA (6202J), 401 M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460. Phone: (202) 233-9408. Fax: (202) 233-9578.
Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps
Why energy-efficient air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners?
About half of all energy used by households goes to heating and cooling the home. Over 7% of all homes are heated and cooled with air-source heat pumps and 24% of new homes are built with them. Also the number of central air conditioning units in homes is increasing rapidly. Seventy-seven percent of new homes are now built with central air conditioning, up from 43 % in 1972, and over 40% of all existing homes now have central air conditioning. In 1994, over 1 million air-source heat pumps and almost 4 million central air conditioners were shipped from manufacturers &151 the most ever.
By increasing the efficiency of new air-source heat pump and central air conditioning units being installed, we can dramatically reduce the nation's energy consumption and resultant pollution. This will also help utilities offset their peak loads and avoid having to construct costly new power plants. More efficient equipment has the added benefit of helping consumers save money on their energy bills.
What is EPA doing about it?
EPA has formed a new Energy Star program with air conditioner and heat pump manufacturers. The Energy Star air-source heat pump and central air-conditioner program is a voluntary partnership between manufacturers and EPA to stimulate the market for high-efficiency products. The Energy StarSM logo is a symbol that consumers can look for to identify air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners that save energy and prevent pollution. Energy Star air conditioners are 20 percent more efficient than ones currently meeting the federal government standards. Energy Star air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners could save consumers over $350 million per year by the year 2000 in heating and air conditioning bills. Consumers will easily recognize the new, more efficient products because they will be identified by the EPA Energy Star logo shown above.
Purchasing Energy Star Heat Pumps and Air Conditioners
Utilities all over North America are promoting high-efficiency heat pumps and air conditioners because they help reduce peak demand and provide higher customer satisfaction. Energy Star heat pumps and air conditioners also produce a variety of other benefits:
• Energy bills are dramatically reduced
• All units come with a manufacturer's warranty
• Pollution is reduced through the use of high-efficiency products.
In addition to asking for Energy Star when purchasing heat pumps and air conditioners, consumers should consider the following:
• Make sure the unit is properly sized and installed to ensure maximum comfort and efficiency.
• Contractors should be well trained in the proper installation of air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners.
• The duct work should be installed properly, since an improperly installed system can dramatically reduce efficiency.
Efficiency Comparison: How Much Can My Energy Star Save?
EPA Energy Star air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners can save users a great deal of money by reducing electricity bills. Look for the Energy StarSM logo when purchasing these products, to be sure of lowering you energy bill.
For more information about Energy Star air-source heat pumps and central air conditioners, please contact:
Steve Offutt, Manager, Energy Star Air-Source Heat Pumps and Central Air Conditioners, U.S. EPA (6202J), Washington, D.C. 20460. Phone: (202) 233-9578. Fax: (202) 233-9791.
This information courtesy of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.
HOW ENERGY USE IS MEASURED
The efficiency of gas and oil furnaces is measured in a rating known as AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). A lot like your car's miles per gallon rating, AFUE tells you how efficiently the furnace converts fuel (gas or oil) into heat. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the fuel is used to heat your home, while the other 10% basically goes up the chimney.
In 1992, the U.S. government established a minimum AFUE rating for furnaces installed in new homes at 78%. (In contrast, many furnaces manufactured before 1992 had AFUE ratings as low as 60% &151 - so nearly half the fuel was being wasted.) Furnaces with AFUE ratings of 78% to 80% are considered "mid- efficiency"; those with ratings of 90% or higher are known as "high-efficiency." The maximum furnace efficiency available is around 96.6%.
The cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps is measured in a rating known as SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio). The higher the number, the greater the efficiency.
The typical SEER rating of units manufactured prior to 1992 is about 6.0. In 1992, the government established the minimum cooling efficiency standard for units installed in new homes at 10 SEER. High-efficiency units have a SEER of at least 12.0; the maximum available is about 17.
Heat pumps also have heating efficiency ratings, indicated as an HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor). In general, the higher the HSPF rating, the less electricity the unit will use to heat your home.
The 1992 government minimum heating efficiency standards for new heat pumps is 6.8 HSPF. Most heat pumps manufactured before 1992 have HSPF ratings below 5.0. Today, an HSPF of 7.5 or higher is considered "high-efficiency"; the maximum available is 10.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Check the air filter in your furnace or fan coil every 3 to 4 weeks. A dirty filter will cause excessive strain on your furnace, air conditioner or heat pump. Replace your filter when necessary, or clean it if you have the reusable type. (If you have a reusable filter, make sure it’s completely dry before you re-install it.) The prefilter and collection cells of an electronic air cleaner should be cleaned at least two or three times per year.
Clean dust off of your indoor coil. With a vacuum cleaner and soft-brush attachment, you can remove any dust from the top and underside of the coil. Make sure you only do this when the coil is dry. If you can’t get the coil clean this way, call your dealer for service.
Keep your outdoor condensing unit free of debris. If you keep grass clippings, leaves, shrubbery and debris away from your outdoor unit, it should only require minimal care to operate properly. Check the base pan (under the unit) occassionally and remove debris, to help the unit drain correctly.
If the outdoor coil becomes dirty, use a brush or a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment to clean the surface. To clean dirt that is deep in the coil, contact your dealer.
Take special care of outdoor condensing units in ocean environments. If your unit is located near a sea coast, you can help preserve its optimal condition with a little extra care. Ocean mist and sea breezes carry salt, which is corrosive to most metals. Although new Carrier units are made out of galvanized metal and are protected by top-grade paint, you can add life to your unit by washing all exposed surfaces and the coil approximately every three months. (Ask your installing contractor about the appropriate interval in your area.)
Make sure your outdoor unit stays in a level position. If the support for your split-system outdoor unit shifts or settles and the unit is no longer level, re-level it promptly to make sure moisture drains properly out of the unit. If you notice that water or ice collects beneath the unit, arrange for it to be drained away from the equipment.
Inspect your furnace’s combustion area and vent system before each heating season. If you find dirt, soot or rust, your system may not operate properly or at its peak efficiency. Call your servicing dealer and do not operate your furnace until it is professionally inspected and/or repaired.
Have oil-fired boilers inspected annually. Call your servicing dealer before each heating season to replace your oil filter cartridge and conduct a thorough inspection of the unit’s operation.
Clean your humidifier at the beginning of every heating season. Review your owner’s manual for the proper procedure to clean the external and internal components of your unit. The evaporator pad should also be replaced before each heating season. If the water in your area is hard or has high mineral content, you may need to clean or service your humidifier more frequently.
Clean the core and air filters on a ventilator at least every three months. You can vacuum the core of an energy recovery ventilator as long as it is dry and the outdoor temperature is between 60 F (16 C) and 75 F (24 C). Heat recovery ventilator cores can be soaked for three hours in a solution of warm water and mild soap and then rinsed. Ventilator air filters are washable: just use a vacuum to remove the heaviest accumulation of dust and then wash them in lukewarm water. Replace them after they are completely dry.
Before You Request A “Service Call”:
• Check disconnect switches (indoor and outdoor if you have a split system). Make sure that circuit breakers are ON or that fuses have not blown.
• Check for sufficient airflow. Make sure air filters are clean and that supply-air and return-air grilles are open and unobstructed.
• Check the settings on your thermostat. If you want cooling, make sure the temperature control selector is set below room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is on the COOL or AUTO position. If you want heat, make sure the temperature control selector is set above room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is at HEAT or AUTO. The FAN switch should be set at ON for continuous blower operation or AUTO if you want the blower to function only while the unit is operating.
In addition to the routine maintenance you perform, your home comfort system should be inspected at least once a year by a properly trained service technician. Your servicing dealer will make sure your system operates safely and gives you the best performance at the lowest cost. You may also want to ask your dealer about an economical service contract that covers seasonal inspections for a flat fee.
COMPARING DIFFERENT EQUIPMENT
There are basically three ways you can compare the performance of different models and brands:
(1) How much energy they use to heat or cool your home (Efficiency); (2) How much you notice their presence (Sound Levels); and (3) How they make you feel (Comfort).
Efficiency
Furnaces. The efficiency of a furnace is measured in a rating known as AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). A lot like your car’s miles per gallon rating, AFUE tells you how efficiently the furnace converts fuel (gas or oil) into heat. An AFUE of 80% means that 80% of the fuel is used to heat your home, while the other 20% basically goes up the chimney.
In 1992, the government established a minimum AFUE rating for furnaces installed in new homes at 78%. (In contrast, many furnaces manufactured before 1992 had AFUE ratings as low as 60% — so nearly half the fuel was being wasted.) Furnaces with AFUE ratings of 78% to 80% are considered “mid-efficiency”; those with ratings of 90% or higher are known as “high efficiency.” The maximum furnace efficiency available is around 96.6%.
In general, the higher the efficiency of the furnace, the more it will cost but the less fuel it will use to heat your home. If you have an older furnace (with an AFUE of about 60%), you could save up to 60% on your heating bills by replacing it with a new high-efficiency furnace. So the cost to replace your old, inefficient furnace is paid back through lower utility bills.
If you live in a cold climate, you could see a payback in a few short years. If you live in a moderate climate, it might make more sense to purchase a mid-efficiency furnace. Your dealer can use heating data from your area to help you determine about how long it would take you to recover the additional cost of a high-efficiency model in energy savings. (Of course, after the payback, you continue to save on your energy bills for the life of the system.)
Heat pumps and air conditioners. Cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps is indicated by a SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating, which tells you how efficiently a unit uses electricity. The higher the number, the greater the efficiency.
The typical SEER rating of units manufactured prior to 1992 is about 6.0. In 1992, the government established the minimum cooling efficiency standard for units installed in new homes at 10.0 SEER. High-efficiency units have a SEER of at least 12.0; the maximum available is about 17.
Heat pumps also have heating efficiency ratings, indicated as an HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor). In general, the higher the HSPF rating, the less electricity the unit will use to heat your home.
The 1992 government minimum heating efficiency standards for new heat pumps is 6.8 HSPF. Most heat pumps manufactured before 1992 have HSPF ratings below 5.0. Today, an HSPF of 7.5 or higher is considered “high-efficiency”; the maximum available is 10.0. (If you want to get real technical, the actual heating efficiency of air-source heat pumps is well over 100%, because they “steal” heat energy from the outside air — instead of using just electricity — to heat your home. So you get much more out of them than you put in.)
As with furnaces, higher efficiency in heat pumps and air conditioners usually means higher cost but lower utility bills. If you live in a warm and/or humid climate, you will probably see the higher cost of a high-efficiency air conditioner or heat pump paid back (through lower utility bills) in a few short years. Ask your dealer to help you determine about how long it would take you to recover the additional cost in energy savings. Of course, after the payback, you continue to save on your energy bills.
There’s one other factor that affects the efficiency of your air conditioning or heat pump system: the indoor coil. (Your heat pump or air conditioner is a “split system,” which means that there is an outdoor unit, or condenser, and an indoor unit, or evaporator coil.) If your condensing unit is not matched with the proper indoor coil, it may not give you the stated SEER and/or HSPF ratings and could even develop performance problems. (It’s kind of like putting two new tires on one side of your car and leaving the old, worn-out ones on the other side. You’d probably be disappointed with both the performance and the miles per gallon you get.) When you’re replacing an existing system, make sure you replace both units so your new condensing unit will give you optimal performance, efficiency and comfort.
SOUND LEVELS
Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps. There’s a good chance you won’t ever think about the sound level of your air conditioner or heat pump ... until, that is, you try to enjoy a quiet conversation with some friends in your back yard. Sometimes noise from condensing (outdoor) units even interferes with your peace and quiet indoors, so it’s a factor you should at least look at when you’re comparing different models.
The sound level of outdoor units is measured in bels (similar to decibels), on a scale from 0 (barely perceptible sound) to 13 (the threshold of pain). Most air conditioners and heat pumps operate at 8 to 9 bels; some units’ ratings are as low as 6.8. That may not sound like a wide range, but consider this: 9 bels sounds 10 times louder than 8 bels. That means one 9-bel air conditioner is as loud as 10 units rated at 8 bels. So we think taking the time to compare bel ratings is pretty sound advice.
Furnaces. There isn’t a standard sound rating system for furnaces like the bel system for condensing units, so it’s difficult to compare models.
However, models that have two-speed or variable-speed operation typically also offer lower operating sound levels, because there is less noise from the blower motor and from air turbulence at lower speeds. Carrier’s variable-capacity models even have a “ramp-up” feature that gradually introduces warm air into your ducts, helping prevent the “creaking” noises that come from ducts expanding and contracting.
Since two-speed and variable-capacity models normally run on “low” speed up to 90% of the time, you’ll find they’re a sound solution when you want to enjoy peace and quiet.
Furnaces. For furnaces, the same features of multi-capacity models that provide lower sound levels also enhance your comfort. By operating on low speed up to 90% of the time, two-speed furnaces run for longer periods of time than single-speed furnaces. That means fewer on/off cycles, fewer drafts (from the blower kicking on) and much smaller temperature swings -- only one or two degrees instead of the four-degree swings common with single-speed furnaces. Plus, better air circulation helps prevent air “stratification” — warm air rising to the ceiling and cold air settling on the floor. In short, you get consistent, even heat throughout your home.
Variable-capacity furnaces also offer “smart” motors than can monitor your home’s comfort needs and automatically adjust the volume and speed of air to provide the greatest comfort and the most efficient heating or cooling. They provide the ultimate combination of comfort, efficiency and quiet performance.
Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps. Some air conditioners and heat pumps offer additional features that provide greater comfort. Two-speed units can run on low speed (using 50% of the energy) up to 80% of the time, so they offer the same benefits as multi-capacity furnaces — fewer on/off cycles, fewer drafts and much smaller temperature swings. You also get better air circulation, for even, consistent cooling and/or heating throughout your home. Plus, if you purchase a multi-speed or variable-capacity furnace or fan coil with your unit, you will enhance both the comfort and the efficiency of your air conditioning or heat pump system even further.
REFRIGERANTS
Are there new refrigerants available that are safer for the environment?
Yes, and the most promising one is R-410A, also referred to as AZ-20. Carrier offers a new air conditioner (model 38TXA) with R-410A because it provides high-efficiency cooling along with other substantial benefits for the environment.
Be friendly to your ozone.
New refrigerants are being developed for air conditioners because traditional refrigerants, if they accidentally escape from an aging system, can cause damage to the ozone layer of the earth's atmosphere. Scientists have associated ozone depletion with potential health risks, and many countries, including the United States, are taking steps to reverse the trend.
The culprit in traditional refrigerants (R-12 and R-22) is a chlorine atom, which reacts with ozone in the upper atmosphere and destroys it. R-410A, chemically known as an HFC (hydrofluorocarbon), contains no chlorine and will not damage the ozone layer.
Being earth-wise can make you cool.
You may already know about alternative refrigerants if you've purchased a new car since 1994. Today, cars keep you cool with a non-chlorine refrigerant known as R-134A. Carrier has decided to use R-410A as the alternative refrigerant for its residential cooling products because if helps your system perform better.
Carrier's R-410A air conditioner offers the same performance as R-22 units in terms of noise levels, the temperature of air coming out of the registers, and the time it takes to cool your home. In fact, the refrigerant has been on the market for several years and has undergone many hours of testing before being used in cooling equipment.
Is R-410A for you?
How do you know if R-410A is for you? If you're thinking about replacing your central air conditioner, there are several factors to keep in mind.
The production of R-22 (the refrigerant used in most central air conditioners) began to be phased out in 1996, so less will be available each year meaning the cost for repairs and recharges for R-22 units is likely to escalate. So, while the cost of an R-410A unit is slightly higher than it is for a traditional R-22 unit, you'll be insuring yourself against escalating refrigerant costs. Plus, if your current air conditioner was manufactured before 1990, you could dramatically reduce the amount of energy you use (and your electric bills), thanks to the high efficiency (14 SEER) of this new unit. That adds up to a substantial payback to your wallet and to the environment.